Monday, April 25, 2011

The Beginning of the End


4-25-11

I realize its been a while since I blogged and I didn’t even post the beginning of my last blog, but I’ve been really busy with not that great of internet. We have started our Directed Research projects which are basically a thesis that you have to do research, and write in 3 weeks or less than present your findings and solutions to the community. It is very stressful and we are working all the time. Last week we spent every day collecting data. My group, environmental policy, is researching water management and usage in the Amboseli Ecostyem and its effectiveness. This means that we have two forms of data collection: a GPS group that goes out and walks along the rivers and maps all the farms that utilize this river and a questionnaire group that interviews farmers at random intervals. I was doing GPS for the first three days and it was so painful. I walked at least 45km in three days, that’s a lot of miles. For those who have working google do the conversion and let me know how many. Then on the fourth day I was in charge of inputting data. It is such a pain, we don’t have a cord to connect the GPS to the computer so we have to input by hand every single coordinate into the computer. It takes forever, and at every GPS point we recorded different information which also needs to be inputted. The questionnaires go by faster because there are less numbers. While out GPSing I’ve fallen in two rivers, waded through a knee-deep swamp full of dung-water, gotten the worst farmers tan of my life and walked really far. Its kind of worth it and cool that we are doing this because this is the first time its ever been done. No one has mapped the water usage before in this region or have farmers been interviewed to this extent. We are also interviewing officials that control the water management which I can’t wait for. We had to write a proposal as a group, but the rest of our paper (over 30 pages, in the past has been 60 pages on average) will be written as individuals. Our proposal is 9 pages single spaced. This DR has consumed my life to the extent that I barely have time to blog. I also have such terrible internet that I have for the most part given up on writing blogs.  I guess I should continue describing Tsavo. That will be another time and place though. For now I will describe Tsavo as a great camping experience, but I was disappointed by the wildlife. Since it had recently rained a lot and the vegetation as super dense we barely saw anything. No man-eating lions, no rhinos in the rhino sanctuary, not even snakes. I did kill a scorpion ready to strike by the fire. Oh and my flashlight and headlamp are both broken and the flashlight died while walking to the bathroom the first night. Austin had a light that we shared, but it is a lot harder to do things without a light. I think I am cursed with flashlights. The light I was borrowing from him is now broken, we thought it was just dead batteries but even with brand new ones it won’t work. Then back at camp I borrowed Christina’s extra flashlight and now that won’t work…. WHAT IS WRONG WITH ME?? I’ve been using my cellphone’s flashlight and I can only hope that doesn’t get broken either.

Yesterday was Easter, and we also had a non-program day. Will organized a 5k for the Aids clinic that we visited a couple weeks ago and we raised a couple hundred dollars for it just from student donations. Sarah raised money by doing chores and errands for people for money. She raised over $150 that way. So impressive. We did the race around the camp. Our camp has a mile perimeter that includes a running trail, so we raced along that. I am terrible at running and finished around 34min., but the fastest person finished in 23:19. Afterwards we had an awards ceremony and the two people that raised the most money got Nutella as a reward (all the way from Nairobi) and the fastest people got their choice of fruit that Will was given while interviewing farmers. Then we all showered and changed into church attire and most of us attended a church service hosted by one of our guides. My group has this guide that leads us around while doing GPS, his name is Pastor Peter and he is this short, very round man with a metal wire glasses that look very tight on his shaved head. He walks SO FAST!! Its incredible, everyone who knows me knows I walk fast, he walks ten times faster than me. It was painful to keep up with him. But he invited us to his church for Easter in Kimana so we all wanted to go. We showed up with 26 white people and completely filled the church. He and another pastor led the service. It was really intense, they were super emotional, but the singing and dancing was so much fun. They get so into praising the lord that they are all dancing with all of their heart. It was really fun. After church we returned back to camp for lunch. While everyone else was eating Christina, Sarah and me hid easter eggs. Christina had filled 70 plastic eggs with candy from town the night before and she recruited me to help her. We hid them ALL over camp and then at 1pm we released everyone to go look for them. It was hilarious, people were running and fighting over eggs and looked really comical searching. Only 60 eggs were found, so ten are still out there. LOL After the egg-hunt some people went into town to the bar and the rest of us stayed and did beading with some Maasai women. They are called Mamas and they taught us how to make beaded jewelry, SO COOL! I made an anklet, a bracelet and two rings. I will probably make this my new hobby since it is so much fun and really easy. We were beading straight till dinner. Dinner was so good, Christina and Sarah had baked red-velvet cake for Easter with yummy frosting. And Molly had made no-bake cookies which are made of melted butter, sugar and milk, then mixed with cocoa powder, oats and peanut butter. I had lots of sugar yesterday; I even had a sugar crash from it because I haven’t had candy, cake, soda, and lots of chocolate all in one day in MONTHS. Then I watched homeward bound, so cute, with my friends and went to bed. Overall a good day. Today will be dedicated to DR work. AHHH. So if you don’t really hear from me in the next two weeks it’s because all my time is being dedicated to writing a 30-60 page paper. 

Read my other post right before this (posted the same day)! Wish me luck on my DR. 

I'm home in three weeks!

-Julie

No Man-eating Lions for me


4-13-2011

Tsavo West National Park

The day begun really early, and as M.O.D (modafunsi of the day or student of the day), I was in charge of wrangling up all the students to load up the cars, eat breakfast and help prepare to leave camp. Once in the jeeps we headed towards Tsavo. Normally only a 2.5-3 hour drive we made several stops along the way for travelling lectures. My car was Erica, Courtney, Mikayla, Greg, Nicky, Jess, and Alice with Daniel driving us and mama J (a cook) in the front seat. The first stop was a hill with a beautiful view over Kuku group ranch near a secondary school. Shem, our Wildlife Management teacher lectured us for an hour. Shem is my favorite teacher, although I’ve heard he is a very hard grader, and he has a very dry sense of humor. He looks like Bill Cosby… and when he wears a sweater it is unreal how canny the resemblance is. Elliot has this plan of bringing Shem to D.C., going to Ben’s Chili Bowl and trying to pass him off as Cosby so we get a free meal. Shem already agreed to the plan LOL.

After the lecture we got back in the jeeps and headed towards the national park. 30 minutes away from the hill we stopped to pick up our armed guards. The government requires that every tourist/white person travelling to and in the park must have an armed guard per car. This requirement is a result of lots of armed raids against tourist cars and to protect tourists from wildlife in the park. At the site to pick them up we were sitting in the jeep waiting, minding our own business and we were bombarded by people selling carvings, beaded jewelry, knives and so much more. They come up to you in the car, and god forbid your window is open because then they actually stick the object and their arms through your windows and grab you or force you to hold onto the item, and harass you. They are yelling prices and just trying to get your attention and if you show them the slightest interest, even if it is just looking at them they won’t go away until your car drives away. I had no intention of buying anything, but then I saw this beautiful carving of a hippo and I just had to have it. I bargained it down from 8,000 KSH to 1,000 KSH= $12 and he handed it over. The hippo was so heavy that I dropped it on my lap which really hurt and my first thought was, how on earth will I get this home with me? I’ve decided I’m going to leave my school books here and that’ll equal the weight of the hippo. Then I saw a rhino and I also had to buy it. Normally the carvings look very cheap and not worth my time, but these two were something special. I made friends with the carver, his name is John, and Jess asked him to make her a lion for when we returned on Saturday. I also normally am strongly against buying carvings just because they illegally harvest wood from the forest and it is very unsustainable. For example ebony: Ebony trees take 80 years to grow and reach maturity and in times of stress, such as drought, it can take them 100 years. But it only takes one person five minutes to cut it down for their own purposes. Ebony is a beautiful black wood, but not worth knowing I just endorsed the destruction of a 100 years worth of growth. Ebony trees are also very important for their environments, so it’s devastating to the forests to lose these trees. Ebony has become so rare that they now make carvings out of other trees. My rhino is rosewood and he wouldn’t tell me what the hippo was made of but it’s very clearly painted black so I’m not worried about it being ebony.

I had perfect timing, because after I paid for the rhino we sped off towards the lava fields. Tsavo West National Park and Chyulu Hills are composed of many dormant volcanoes, with the most recent explosion 500 years ago. The last lava flow is still very visible and it covers the whole landscape with hardened black basalt. We were driving surrounded by bushes and trees and dust under the hot sun when we rounded a corner and as far as we could see there were black lava fields. We stopped for 15 minutes and walked all over the dried lava, it was unreal. The rock is very hollow, but has razor sharp edges. Daniel, our Maasai program assistant who drives and helps organize our events, compared it to the sharp edge of a Machete. Of course I was stupidly wearing flip flops that day so I had to be super careful walking over the dried lava. I took pictures, but of course it can’t compare to seeing it in reality. I took an Archaeology of Pompeii class where we learned how the city was covered in ash and lava… It was so easy to see this lava and picture it covering an entire city. It was creepy too knowing the volcanoes are only dormant and could go off at any time. We got back in the jeeps and stood up for a game drive. That is why I was wearing flip flops, because when we do a game drive we lift off the hatches of the roof and stand on the seats, and we have to be barefoot so we don’t ruin the seats. We saw these adorable animals jumping and climbing all over the sharp rocks, klip springers, they are little antelopes that are really agile and their heads are so cute and look like baby foxes. After struggling to climb over the lava myself it was so cool to see these springers just hop and run so easily across it.

At this point we were almost entering the park and we all got really excited. We couldn’t wait to see the maneless, man-eating lions and rhinos in the rhino sanctuary. We all stood up out of the hatches with our binoculars and cameras at the ready. I kind of assumed before getting here that I would never use my binoculars… little did I know how useful they would be. The only thing I can think to compare it to in order to properly explain the difference it makes would be wearing glasses. When I don’t wear glasses everything far away is really blurry and I can usually only see outlines, but when I put glasses on every detail is sharp and clear. This is the same with binoculars, you’re probably thinking DUH, but when you are looking at an animal like a cheetah that is really far away and your camera can’t focus on it and you’ve lost all hope of seeing it, having binoculars is a life-saver. Being able to see the cheetah’s tear-drop face is SO COOL or every detail of a hippo’s mouth when it yawns, indescribable; especially now that I can successfully identify sex, age and species of most large mammals in Tanzania and Kenya.

Immediately after we entered the park, around 11am, we reached the Mzima Springs. Remember the hippo video I watched before leaving where I saw hippo infanticide? Well these springs are where those hippos live. Most of the water I’ve seen in Africa is dirty, not clear, and looks really gross, but these springs are completely pure. They come from Chyulu Hills, a huge water catchment, and it is pumped so fast (totally naturally) into the spring that the water is purified by the pressure. It enters the springs by a small hole in the ground on one side and on the other side it exits the spring and goes underground through another small hole. Very cool! The springs are home to hippos and crocodiles. So when we got there we expected to see hundreds of hippos, little did we know that the severe drought of 2009 wiped out almost the entire population and only 5-10 remain. We ate lunch surrounded by begging vervet monkeys, which can be really aggressive although they look super innocent (one jumped through the hatch into a jeep where Elliot was sitting and we had to scream at it to get out). After lunch we had to walk as a group down to the springs where they have this lovely stone trail from one of the springs to the other end with funny signs on trees. One sign said “please do not engrave your initials on my trunk”. It was really nice to hear the sound of rushing water, and to see water that was actually clear, but we didn’t see a lot of animals. Farther down the trail we stopped at what looked like a small hut resting on the water, turns out it has an underwater looking point where you can see everything that is in the water. The water is so pure that you can see quite far, I imagine when the springs have lots of hippos this spot must be really cool. All I saw were fish… But upon exiting we looked across the spring to the other bank and saw the fattest crocodile ever. It looked like it had just eaten a zebra, it was that fat. That was awesome. Finally at the very end of the trail on the other side of the springs we saw hippos really far away so basically all we saw were their ears and nostrils. What I really liked, and I usually see at every tourist stop, is the skulls of different animals. At the springs they had hippo skulls which are huge and as big as half my body.

Our game drive began again and we headed towards our campsite in the park. Unfortunately we didn’t see any animals, a huge disappointment after our Serengeti expedition, but the landscape was beautiful. Since we are in the wet season, and it has been raining despite the drought, all the animals have dispersed outside the park because resources are more abundant. While the lack of animals sucks, the landscape was really gorgeous. Everything was green and there is just more vegetation than in Serengeti. It’s also harder to see the animals because it’s mostly very dense bush on either side of the road. The road itself was cool. It kept changing colors from black dirt, to grayish dirt to bright red dirt. In the park where we did game drives the road was a bright red color, which meant that after every game drive we all got out of the jeeps covered in red dust and completely filthy. We reached the campsite after a very uneventful but beautiful drive and set up the tents. Of course my tent was right on top of an ant hill so every time we left anything outside our tent it was immediately swarmed by ants. At least they weren’t safari ants; those were near the bathrooms and one bit Austin’s big toe because he got too close. After we put up the tents we got back in the jeeps and went to the top of a hill and watched the sun set over Chyulu Hills, so gorgeous. In the car while waiting for the sun to set my car played riddle and logic games. I think being in Africa has taught me so many games. I need to write them all down before I forget them. 


Will tell more later,


-Julie 

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Kilimanjaro Bush Camp


4/4/2011

UPDATE: I just got back from Tsavo and was unable to post this before my camping trip because I didn't have internet. If you emailed, facebooked or sent any technological communication to me I was unable to open it or even respond. Please stop telling me to watch youtube videos, etc... because I rarely have access to internet and then sporadically to certain websites. I'll have a Tsavo blog soon!

This past week has been a whirlwind of activities. We have had a full week of classes, papers due, travelling lectures, community service and volleyball tournaments before our Directed Research Projects begin. We are leaving tomorrow for Tsavo West National Park where we will be camping for a week, similar to Serengeti I will have no technology for a week and again won’t be showering. Tsavo means Place of Slaughter because the Maasai killed so many Kamba back in the day. It is well-known for having man-eating lions and male lions without manes. And we will be camping in the middle of the park. Molly, our Student Affairs Manager now that we are in Kenya, says that every year animals come through the camp while we are sleeping and one time a pride of lions was hunting a group of girls walking to the bathrooms but a car driving nearby scared them away. Terrifying! But as long as I stick with the askari and armed guards I’ll be safe.

Pause: We are in the middle of watching a video about the hippos in the springs of Tsavo and it was super cute showing us the baby and its mother swimming around. The baby is so small in comparison to the mom and it was really cool. Then it began to discuss the male hippos and how aggressive they are and how they practice infanticide (killing of the babies). So when the mother is introducing the baby hippo to the dominant male who is also the father the male KILLS the baby. They showed the whole horrible chase scene and how he used his massive jaws to clamp down on the baby and you could hear the screaming and then after it died the mother comes up and nudges it to try and wake it up. Then she tries to lift the baby to the surface to breathe because she can’t believe it is dead. I’m so horrified and traumatized.  That was literally the worst thing I’ve ever seen and I hope I never see it again.

I guess I should describe where I’m living. I have moved to Kilimanjaro Bush Camp, in Kimana, Kenya, the other SFS site where I will be doing my directed research for the next month. From my banda I have a view of Kilimanjaro every day and it is literally the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. When you see the sun rise and set over the mountain it just makes you want to cry it is so stunning. The bandas have these high pointed thatched roofs that look stereotypically African and every banda has a view of Kilimanjaro. When we shower, communal showers, you can see over the door a cool view of the mountain. Well if you are taller than 5’4” you can, unfortunately I am shorter than that but if I hop I can see it. LOL The camp is much larger than Moyo and feels much more like a research center. There is a mile long track only the perimeter that my friend Jess and I run every morning. At least we were until the past couple of days where we have had to leave really early every day for lectures and transects. There is a volleyball court, soccer field and a forest in the camp. It is beautiful here and since it has been raining everything is awesome and green. We are surrounded by wildlife too. There is a troop of baboons that live behind my banda, we have vervet monkeys, bush babies (which are the cutest little animals EVER and have the largest eyes), friendly local dogs, and elephants sometimes break through the fence and browse on our trees. But we haven’t had to deal with that yet. There are bad things here too, rats in my banda, black mambas (one the most poisonous snakes), red spitting cobras and very poisonous scorpions. I’ve so far only seen two black mambas, both after they had been killed and I killed a scorpion in the bathroom yesterday. Overall this camp is amazing, the library is huge and the food is much better (although still the same) and I really like the chumba (classroom/cafeteria). A huge issue is how bad the internet is. We only have power from 6:30pm to 11pm from the generator. In the day it is solar, very unreliable. And our internet is a satellite dish that sucks. Like right now, I can open up google but can’t open facebook, my emails, or any school websites. It makes it really hard to communicate or apply for jobs.

Two days ago we went to Amboseli National Park, famous for its thousands of elephants, but we only saw a group of ten elephants, two hippos and a cheetah the whole day. After Serengeti it was very boring and couldn’t compare. All the animals leave the park after it rains and it had rained for the past three days so no wonder it was boring. There is a lodge in the middle of the park that has been abandoned for the past ten years and it is very creepy looking. There are two really nice lodges immediately nearby that look so bizarre next to these abandoned rundown buildings overrun by monkeys. We hung out at the Oldupai lodge for an hour after our lecture in the park and it was really nice.

Last week we went to this gorge and hiked down to a beautiful waterfall that is only flowing after heavy rainfall and we are in the wet season (but still in a drought). The hike looked very much like America and we all forgot we were in Africa because there were corn fields and trees that looked very similar to East Coast trees. One side of the river was Tanzania and the other side was Kenya. So we were hopping back and forth joking about being in different countries. Afterwards we went to Loitoktok to this AIDS support clinic that does free testing and is a support group for people with AIDS. We had these women from the clinic talk to us about how they found out they were positive, what their families did to them, how their lives have changed and what they are doing now. These women were so inspiring and so strong. We all bought all of their jewelry and souvenirs they sell at the clinic to raise money for medications and testing. The stuff I got was so cool and unique and cheap, I felt bad so I gave them more money than they asked for because the work was really good quality.

I need to pack for Tsavo because we leave really early. I will update you again after my weeklong camping trip. Cross my fingers I come back in one piece! Hehe

The funny thing is I probably won’t be able to post this until after Tsavo because I have no internet and have had none this whole day.

Baadye,
Julie

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Last Day in Tanzania


3/23/11

I am currently sitting on my bottom bunk in Simba A banda surrounded by suitcases, spending my last night in Tanzania with my roommates. We have spent the past two hours packing up everything and cleaning our banda. It feels so surreal that I’m moving to Kenya. Strangely this place has become my home and I don’t want to leave Tanzania. I’m nervous for Kenya, but really excited. Apparently the wildlife is much more abundant and close to the camp and it is much more isolated from everything. Our technology is even more limited than here in Tanzania. We will have only cold showers, communal bathrooms outside and all our electricity is from generators which only operate at certain hours and our internet is only in the classroom. We will be “unplugged” as Okello our center director puts it. We have all new staff and a new Student Affairs Manager, Molly. I really don’t want to leave all the amazing people I’ve bonded with here. Paulo, Charles, Yohanna, Aschum, Boora, Moses, Kioko, Erica, Safari, Yuri, Gerald, Arthur and many more staff members have made Tanzania unbelievably awesome! We had dinner and then had reflections and said goodbye to the majority of the staff, it was sad and no one wants to leave. We may get to meet the other group that we are switching with tomorrow as we cross the border. Maybe I should explain what is happening with my program. As part of SFS Kenya and Tanzania it means that we spend half the semester in Tanzania and then switch to Kenya for the second half. But while my group of 29 students has been in Tanzania, there have been 30 students in Kenya. So we are switching places with the other group. They don’t want to leave Kenya either. It will be a 6 ½ hour drive to the Kenya camp. About 4 hours to get to the border and then we have a lot of chill time at the border depending on how busy it is. That is when we may get to meet the other group. I don’t know how I feel about them. They are taking our places at Moyo Hill which is not alright. The Kenya camp is a lot more isolated and very different from Tanzania. Apparently elephants break through the fence sometimes, and there are lots of snakes and scorpions so we always have to have closed toed shoes; which is very different. The only wild animals at Moyo are dik diks and feral cats and dogs. I’ve never seen a snake or scorpion here either, but we do have a pet leopard tortoise that some staff rescued a year ago and now it wanders around the camp. Tomorrow should be a very interesting and long day. Our new camp will be located between Mombasa and Nairobi. 

I guess I should tell you all about Serengeti… Honestly it was the most amazing trip of my life. I camped for an entire week in the middle of Serengeti National Park in the Seronera area. We were camping during the wildebeest migration into the park for the wet season and there were so many! There is a total of 1.4 million wildebeest that migrate into the park and our campsite was right alongside their migration route. Every night I fell asleep listening to them grunting and hoping they weren’t going to stampede our campsite like how they did in Lion King. We were so centrally located that wild animals were everywhere. Hyenas wandered through our campsite and monkeys tried to steal our food, one vervet monkey succeeded in stealing Joshie’s chips off of his bag. The monkey stole the bag of chips, ripped it open and then proceeded to eat the chips directly out of the bag as if it were human. It was hilarious and horrible.

 Although we had wild animals wandering freely through our campsite, we had excellent security measures. Boora, our security guard (in Swahili askari), patrolled the camp every night, and one night he actually hit some hyenas with his long stick. He is a former military man from the Tanzanian army and he is hilarious. He does these animal impressions that are priceless. His impression of hyenas is hysterical. He will look at you and his eyes will get really big, then he will scoot towards you slowly and tilt his head and get a crazed look with his tongue out. Then he will start making cackling noises and reaching towards you as I can only assume a hyena would. Then right as he grabs your arm he makes a chomping noise and then says “Boora come” and the hyena cowers away and stops eating the delicious students. It is so funny and he does it all the time. In order to go to the bathroom at night we had to have Boora accompany us to the toilets. So there would be these huge groups of girls headed to the bathrooms and he would walk ahead with his huge flashlight and shine the light into the woods looking for eyes. As we walked we could hear lions roaring in the distance (their roar can travel as far as 15km so they were most likely nowhere near us), and there were buffalo or impala eating grass behind the bathrooms. We also had to be on the alert for elephants because apparently they like to knock the water towers down behind the stalls. (Even though there was water and no elephants knocking things over none of us showered) It wasn’t until the fourth day that some of us went swimming and showered at the lodge we had lunch at. The lodge was unreal. I’ve never seen such a beautiful hotel in my life. It’s the Seronera lodge and it costs $500 - $700 a night to stay there, which may not be as expensive as some hotels in the states that are considered top quality but in Africa that is very expensive. Everything about this place was beautiful and the pool was sublime, although cold. The showers felt so good after 4 days of grime and sweat. Sorry to gross you out! The all you can eat buffet, cost $20 and included showers and swimming, was delicious!! Totally worth all that money! I bought a beautiful handmade leather journal with recycled paper there that I fully intend on using the rest of the trip.

Every day in Serengeti was a game drive through the park. We had numerous field exercises where we observed elephants for 2 ½ hours or bird watched for 2 hours or had a guest lecture from the Chief Ecologist of the Serengeti or even had a lion lecture from an American grad student. We ate lunch one day on Pride rock, the actual rock that inspired the rock in the movie Lion King where baby Simba is displayed to the animal kingdom. I’ve never seen so many amazing and unique animals in my life. I saw a leopard every day for the first three days. I saw one cheetah and mating lions on the 4th day and on the last day as we did a game drive out of the park we saw 6 cheetahs total. Three at once, then ten minutes later a different two cheetahs and an hour later one cheetah hunting along the border of the park.

We went to a hippo pool, which was foul smelling and full of hippo feces. Pretty much all hippos do during the day is sleep in the pools, socialize and poo/pee. The worst part is that their pooing/peeing is not just for necessary waste disposal but for social interactions. There were baby hippos which were adorable. Oh and hippos are the loudest animals ever! They make so many grunting and farting noises when in water, but when on land they are completely silent as they graze at night. I saw crocodiles in the hippo pool too, but they were sunning themselves. I learned how to identify at least 20 different birds, out of 540 bird species in Serengeti. I saw a serval cat, many hyenas, buffalo, tons of zebras, wildebeest and three huge herds of elephants.

When we were doing our field exercise to observe elephants and focus on one individual elephant’s behavior for 2 ½ hours, we saw something really interesting. My jeep of all girls (the boys decided to have a man car that day on St. Patrick’s day), had been observing a family herd of 10-15 elephants with lots of adorable little babies less than a year old when the adult females started freaking out. They were in the middle of crossing a very steep dried up river bed when the adults started trumpeting and their ears were lifted as if listening to something and they started rushing the babies out of this steep ditch. The matriarch elephant pushed an adult female out of the way by putting her tusks on her back and pushing her. Then once they were out of the ditch the elephants rushed to circle the babies and the matriarch stood off in the distance with her ears listening and trumpeting into the distance. It was an amazing sight! The babies were so surrounded that I couldn’t even see them! I would love to know what scared these elephants, they have excellent sense of smell and hearing but they can’t see very well. I didn’t see anything extraordinary except for five minutes before their freak out two male Topi (large antelope with ugly coloring) came bolting across the road in terror, but when that happened the elephants didn’t even freak out. I guess I will never know but it was an experience I’ll never forget. I took a video of the tail end of the freak out but I don’t believe that will post with my internet! Remind me someone when I get home to show you!

That’s more than enough for now. I have many more stories to share but seeing as I have a long day tomorrow with a very early start I need to go to bed! I posted a few photos on facebook that most of you have already seen I’m sure but if not check them out! There are three of lions, elephants and a hippo.

I hope I have strong enough internet to blog in Kenya! UPDATE: I am safely arrived in Kenya and the internet is strong enough at certain times to blog and email and facebook. But we only have electricity (generator) form 6:30 pm till 11pm and during the day we use solar power which is quickly drained. I love it here but it is completely different!

Hakuna Matata,
Julie

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Battle of Wills


3-13-11

(PHOTOS at the end)

This may disturb some but a slaughter of crickets has just taken place in my banda. They are so loud and always chirp right as you are trying to sleep. This morning after class (where we watched a movie about Serengeti) Erica pulled her bag out from under the bunk beds and a horde of crickets emerged. Erica ran screaming out of the room and Courtney and I grabbed hiking shoes and whacked away. The gore was horrifying and the only things left of the crickets are their smashed remains. I literally have a war wound, a scratch on my finger that looks all bloody. I have never been so grossed out and as we whacked with the shoes Courtney and I screamed a LOT. I’m sorry if this offends some people, but it was a necessary war. We’ve allowed two daddy long legs (or as Austin says a woodsman spider) to reside in our banda, one next to the front door and another in the corner of the shower and we’ve named them both Henry. We also have an ENORMOUS unidentifiable spider in a hole in our bathroom that Erica named Eragog (misspelled) from Harry Potter. Living in Africa is a frequent battle with the insects. Thank goodness for bug spray!

I leave for Serengeti tomorrow for five days. I will be unreachable with no technology. And the showers there are normally broken so I may not be able to shower either. The showers always break because the elephants think its fun to tip the water tanks over and off their perch above the bathrooms. LOL I wanted to post this blog since I’ll be unavailable for a week. Apparently we will be woken up by lions roaring and elephants grazing near our camping ground. I’m so excited!! I have to go help pack the rhino truck with our water and food. Later today we have to pack for the trip, and I have a paper due tomorrow morning. Oh and we leave at 6:30am. EARLY!!! Before we reach Serengeti we are going to the Olduvai Gorge where the first human was found! LOL so cool!!

Yesterday was our day off and Jess, Christina, Liz and I all went to Mtu Wa Mbu to paint. We went to this tourist souvenir shop and in the back where they do all their painting they will show you how to do it and let you paint. Of course it costs money but it was a blast. We learned how to put the canvas on the wooden frame and then using their traditionally painting knives and acrylic we painted whatever we wanted. Afterwards we walked through the town and ate some cool local food (don’t worry all of it was boiled and cooked).

My painting of jumping Maasai


PROM: our 80’s themed prom took place last night and it was a blast! LOL we all dressed up as crazily as we could! A couple days ago I bought bright pink skinny jeans at the market for 5,000 shillings (basically $3) and I wore a leopard print dress I have but tucked in with my jeans belted so I looked really 80’s or at least early 90’s. Everyone had bought clothes from the market, and everything is so 80’s there, that we all looked ridiculous. All the girls borrowed makeup from the select few who actually brought it. Although none of us have makeup remover so today the remnants are still there LOL. Courtney and Will were voted prom queen and king and they were so cute. They had fake crowns and did a slow dance. Erica and Boora (a security guard or askari) did the worm. Everyone was there and it was so much fun. Our teacher Kioko was dancing even though he told us he wasn’t going to come. I had a blast and even though it was really similar to middle school dances it was better because we are all so comfortable with each other. After Serengeti we will be even more comfortable with each other. Five days with no showering, in tents of 6 people and no alone time. I can’t wait!! We have to put our bags in the Rhino truck or lorry tomorrow morning at 5:30am. AHHHH.

Christina and I before prom (she was my date)


I’ll keep a journal while in Serengeti so that I can blog about my trip. I’ll miss talking to everyone! Oh and its really weird they don’t do time change here so instead of being 11 hours ahead of home I’m now 10. I thought that was cool!
Two Maasai warriors and a child herding cattle with the first part of the crater in the background


As much of Ngorongoro Crater as would fit in my camera lens


Two male lions at Ngorongoro Crater
Austin on our grass transect near Lake Manyara found a whole skeleton, this is just a part of a spine of some animal probably a cow or buffalo



The moon at sunset from Moyo Hill Camp

Peace,

Julie

Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Food is where the home is

3-9-2011

My life has been so busy and that is why I haven’t blogged, sorry! I also felt bad that my last blog post was so long that everyone deserved a break! I have today to study, then Wildlife Ecology final tomorrow, then on Friday I have Wildlife Management and Environmental Policy finals. Saturday is our day off then we pack on the 13th for Serengeti. And we are going to one of Erica’s friend’s high school graduation at Shalom Orphanage where he is throwing a fundraiser for the orphans. His name is Innocent and he is so cool. He is an artist that designs shirts and cool shoes. He has been volunteering at the orphanage for the past year and loves working with kids. On the 14th we leave for Serengeti and return the 19th. I will have no internet or means of communication during those five days, so no one worry if you don’t hear from me!!

For lunch we are going to this Art Gallery that has these beautiful paintings and statues for tourists (really expensive but actually unique). It also has amazing food and real ice cream! I’m splitting a pizza with Christina and strawberry ice cream. What I’m homesick the most for is real food. I want sushi and seafood a LOT for some reason, considering I really don’t eat that all the time at home. I want to go to an Italian restaurant and eat pasta and breadsticks. What I want the MOST is to go to a movie theatre, see a movie with large buttery popcorn, a huge soda and candy!! I don’t actually miss soda because our duka sells bottled sodas that are cold. So I’ve had coke and fanta, hehe. I miss chocolate a LOT, but they sell Bounty (European version of Mounds) that has chocolate and coconut so I’m happy.  I am so hungry all the time for real food. I’m well fed and I should stop complaining but I WANT to be able to eat whatever I want whenever I want. I miss that freedom. 

If I see ugali one more time I’m going to start a food fight. Ugali is this ground maize that’s white and thick and has NO flavor. Locals LOVE it! When I was at my homestay we had ugali and no silverware so we had to eat like the locals. Basically you use the ugali to pick up other food and eat it with your fingers. It is good every once in a while, but every day!!?????!!!! I’m going to hurl it at Arthur the head cook next time I see him. For Joshie’s birthday a bunch of the girls cooked a traditional southern meal with fried chicken, mashed potatoes, potato salad and sweet iced tea. It was as close to the real thing as we will get here, but it still tasted different, and it was delicious. The staff refused to eat most of it and pretty much only ate the ugali and fried chicken which they thought was good. We teased them for not trying American food when we eat their food all the time. When they saw the cake with frosting they ran away LOL I’m excited for Courtney’s birthday on the 25th, we are going to make Italian food and it’ll be our first real day in Kenya. Hehe or at least we’ll try, we don’t know how the kitchen stuff works there and it will never taste authentic.

Erica taught the staff how to make mac and cheese so that is awesome!! They don’t have cheese here. The staff thinks it’s the weirdest texture ever! We have to go to Arusha, a long drive away, to buy it and then by the time it gets here it’s pretty much all melted. But it’s delicious! They also put onions in EVERYTHING! I love their solutions to leftovers. When there are leftover pancakes from breakfast they cut it up into small pieces and put it in the spaghetti. It’s hilarious and doesn’t taste half bad either.

We all make breakfast every morning and alternate cook crews, who also have to do the dishes from the entire day at night. I’m cook crew tomorrow. We are called Iraqw after the local tribe. My cook crew is legit, we always finish breakfast ten to 20 minutes earlier than other crews and we finish dishes super fast too. Breakfast is the same thing EVERY DAY! We have toast, pancakes, scrambled eggs, oatmeal, sausage, potatoes and fruit every morning. Except NOTHING tastes the same as when we are in American. We make the toast by heavily buttering both sides of a slice of bread and then putting it on this pan to toast, most people burn it so it looks and tastes charred. The butter here I’m pretty sure is just lard and fat so it is really thick and heavy. The oatmeal is from a large packet and tastes really bland so my cook crew usually puts cinnamon and brown sugar in it to add some good flavor. The fruit is fresh every day and is always delicious, although I found a bug in the Mango the other day, icky!! To make scrambled eggs we have to crack three dozen eggs so there is enough for all the students and staff. It could be more than that, it’s a LOT of eggs regardless and takes forever. Then we put in pepper, onions, maybe even tomato and mix it all together. Then we put it on this large metal bowl on the stove and stir it until it is hard enough to eat. The pancakes are so thin they are more like crepes, and on our day off we are going to make crepes with chocolate syrup and fruit! The potatoes we peel, but the staff cooks fry those in oil. And the cooks also do the sausage. We get to chop the fruit which is fun. I now know how to cut a mango, pineapple, water melon and bananas.

As you can see I am obsessed with food. Right now I can honestly say that is what I miss the most. Sorry Patrick and family, just kidding! LOL I have not studied at all, I need to do that now before I go to lunch!

Oh, apparently I slept walk last night. I sat up in bed and was mumbling about Timbuktwo and being tired while I poked my toes. A little while later I was walking around the banda talking to myself. Erica, my banda mate, officially thinks I’m an alien; aliens are her worst fear. Courtney and her both were asking me what I was doing and why I was walking around until they realized I was sleep walking. I’m a little worried I’m going to sleep walk in Serengeti and get eaten by a lion. I told Erica, the SAM, and she said they’ll tie a bell on me LOL. I think she was kidding, I hope she was.

I am actually going to nap because my sleep walking adventures have made me exhausted. I can't wait for FOOD!!! I have two new blog posts, one posted before this, so read both!!

I probably won't blog again until after Serengeti! Miss everyone tons and tons!

-Julie 

Stung


3/4/2011

I HAVE NO FACEBOOK!! If you are trying to contact me on facebook send me an email instead!! SFS Headquarters blocked facebook, youtube and flicker because it kept crashing our internet. Although we still don’t have internet all the time so it was a little pointless! LOL I don’t really miss facebook, except for being able to talk to everyone, so please email me!!  

Right after lunch, while I was hanging out in the duka (the store at our field location) I got stung by an African wasp. Not kidding. I was standing there talking to Moses and some others when all of a sudden I felt a stab on the side of my right foot. I look down and see a bug, I assumed it was a Nairobi fly and freaked out and brushed it off of me. Nairobi flies are really bad because if you squish them they explode acid that can burn you really badly. I realized it was not a Nairobi fly when I saw a stinger in my foot, I don’t think I pulled it out because I brushed my foot again and the stinger came out. It was HUGE! My foot felt tender for the rest of the day and I was so shocked that I was stung! I didn’t even do anything to the freaking wasp; I was standing there minding my own business when it stung me! The next day I awoke to a slightly swollen foot which was very itchy. I restrained from itching it, but the swelling just got worse and worse. When we went on a field exercise to do grass transects next to Lake Manyara my foot was killing me. It hurt really badly to wear sneakers and socks, I had loosened the shoe as much as possible and it still made no improvement. Plus it was around 2pm under the hot sun so my feet were really hot and sweaty which I think aggravated it even more. By that night my foot looked unrecognizable. It was stung right above the arch of my foot, but the swelling extends on the top of my foot all the way to my toes, under the large toe, and above my ankle bone. It looks like I have a deformity or crippled foot. It doesn’t really hurt, but it itches really badly sometimes (I don’t itch it I promise) and feels super tender, plus it bothers my ankle to have it so swollen. I have been taking Benadryl, but it makes me really hyper so I was up really late last night as a result. It was worth it to have some of the swelling go down. Because of this stupid foot I am not going to do our non-program day activities. Almost everyone is going into Mtu Wa Mbu to do a bike ride tour to the lake, or learn how to paint and go shopping for really cool souvenirs. UPDATE (3/9/11): I went to the clinic two days ago where they gave me stronger anti-histamine and my foot is almost a 100% better today.

Besides my freak wasp sting, a lot has happened since Tarangire National Park. Yesterday we were driving through Mtu Wa Mbu after our grass transects and Erica pulled off the road and started driving on the sidewalk. She then explained that there is a baboon named Hominid that walks upright and can open doors and chase human women, who lives in the town. So we drove on the sidewalk following his troop but we couldn’t see him. Then she talked to a local, who was staring up at the trees, “where is hominid” and he said that Hominid was in the tree he was looking into. The locals call hominid Tuesday instead of hominid, I don’t know why. Then he explained how he had a slingshot to scare away Hominid and he would try and get hominid out of the tree for us. We spent ten minutes watching this man look for Hominid, but the baboon is as smart as a human and had disappeared. Erica says we will look for him another time. We got off the sidewalk and drove back to camp.

The other day we went to Ngorongoro Crater, the largest crater in the world and a national park. It was a volcano thousands of years ago that exploded and collapsed in on itself. Now it has so much wildlife and is very lush. I saw 9 lions, a black rhino, spotted and striped hyena, mating Koori Bustards, zebras, wildebeests, buffalo, antelope and gazelles, an elephant, and so much more. I’m bummed we didn’t see a leopard or cheetah even though they are known to be in the region. Nothing happened like in Tarangire! But it was a blast!! It is SO beautiful there! It rained while we were eating lunch which is a good thing because it kept us in the cars. Apparently the baboons and birds are so used to humans that they will take your food from your hands. Last year Erica got a bloody nose from a Kite bird snatching her PB&J. This year Joshie had an orange stolen by a baboon and Kim lost her sandwich to a Kite bird but was only scratched a little bit.

On one of our travelling lectures we stopped at a major agricultural site in Mtu Wa Mbu and interviewed the head farmer. After explaining to us that the rivers dried up after the canals were put in he then told us that the water was drying up because of climate change and not their intensive irrigation. He then proceeded to tell us that their water comes from the Nile and not upstream. The Nile not only is really far away, but it flows in the other direction!! We all just stared at him and then asked more questions. I’m probably only think that is crazy because I’m an environmentalist, but it is amazing the misconceptions locals have here. 

There are other misconceptions that are appalling. Mwamhanga, our environmental policy teacher, told us in class after I asked about population control not working with polygamy that polygamy stops people from cheating on each other and that they have no divorce here but it is rampant in America. When asked why only men can remarry after their wife dies and women can’t when their husband’s die he said that it is because if the women and men both remarried the family lines would get too complicated. Then he told us that men need to remain the dominant ones because if women and men were equal there would be mass civil unrest. His father had six wives and 50 children… There is a nearby primary school that was built by a man for his 167 children. There is another misconception that was really upsetting. Moses was asked what he thought about rape and he said it is the woman’s fault. She should call for help or fight him off. When asked if he would feel the same way about his daughter being raped he said that she should know better and that it probably won’t happen to his daughter. A secondary school we visited was purposefully built so that girls in the region have a shorter walking distance to school so that there are fewer pregnancies. These pregnancies are from being raped on the walk to school. I love Africa, but there are things about Tanzania that are so different from America that I can’t wrap my head around it.

More later!

-Julie

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Mudsocks - Warning not for the faint of heart


2-20-11 (very LONG Blog post)

 Mudsocks and very stuck jeep
 Lion's fresh paw print in the mud

Yesterday we had a Wildlife Management field exercise where we went to the Tarangire National Park in Tanzania. It was to be a typical safari with all of us in jeeps doing animal count transects throughout the park and meeting up at the lodge to eat at the buffet and go swimming. At least that was the plan… My jeep, now nicknamed Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, with Allie, Emily, Sarah, Luke, Amanda, Christina, Austin and I driven by Wilson and accompanied by our Wildlife Management teacher Frank, had other ideas. We left our field site at 7am and after a two hour drive we arrived at Tarangire. It was a beautiful day, and since it was so early in the morning it wasn’t too hot. We took a bathroom break and then set off in different directions in our jeeps. Five minutes in, after spotting Impala, ostrich, warthogs and cattle our road turned into swampland. We managed to barely squeeze through the first swampy section and technically we were stuck for ten seconds but it wasn’t bad and we kept on driving.

The way the transects were supposed to work was that there was a recorder who wrote down everything we saw, a GPS person to take the point where we saw them, a rangefinder to determine the distance from the jeep and everyone else was required to look for the animals with our binoculars. It was rather complicated in the beginning and I would say the first 20 minutes were purely devoted to getting the hang of it. But then we came to a part of the road that the rains had turned into a river. There was a current and everything. Frank hopped out with Wilson and they hiked up their shorts to walk through this river and see how deep it was. They found a stick and walked straight through it to the other side with the water rising up to Frank’s mid-thigh. For some reason that meant that we are able to go through it and so they hopped back into the car and we drove straight through it. It was very bumpy and the water was very high but we did it, cheered and kept driving.

 Less than five minutes later we came to a part of the road that looked like a pond. There were reeds and everything, it was ridiculous, but it didn’t look as deep as the river we had just traversed so we went ahead and plowed straight through it. Or at least that was a goal. Half way through the muddy pond that used to be a road our engine stalled and we got stuck. Frank and Wilson get out again and for forty minutes they tried to get us unstuck while refusing to let us out of the car to help. They wandered off in search of logs and rocks after they realized our wench (I don’t know how to spell that, the thing that is attached to the car and you can attach it to a tree or another car to pull you out of a sticky situation) was broken and useless. Frank in his wandering found a water buffalo skull and held it up to his head as we laughed and took pictures. One log that Wilson found had three yellow scorpions on them, it was crazy. And to point it out to us he stuck his head right next to it and pointed, totally captured that moment with a photo as we were all freaking out. Since we were stuck in the car waiting we all decided to eat our lunches. My family should be proud, not only did I pack a PB&J sandwich but I ate the whole thing AND I LIKED IT!! It could be because the peanut butter here is very different tasting than in America, at least according to everyone here. I have no idea since as everybody knows, especially Patrick, I HATE peanut butter. But ever since Margret got lost I’ve decided to be prepared for any situation and that means assuming I won’t get to eat the nice lodge food or will want a snack before lunch. So we all ate our sandwiches and were talking and laughing, but after an hour we realized the situation was not changing and that we were still really stuck. 

Keep in mind this is only 10am and we’ve only gone 3km away from the main gate. We had all finished eating and by this time we were really pestering Frank and Wilson to let us out of the car, even though Amanda and I were freaking out because that meant we were going to have to wade through African water and mud. Literally every conversation I had with people about Africa before actually coming here including my nurse mother, and the travel clinic doctor was DO NOT go in the local water nor drink it… and here I am begging Frank and Wilson to let us out to help. We didn’t know if there were snakes or dangerous parasites in this water but we knew we weren’t going anywhere unless we got out. It also was extremely aggravating to be stuck in the car while Frank and Wilson were drenched in sweat struggling to get the jeep unstuck. We felt like typical tourist Wazungus (plural of mzungus, white people) and none of us liked that feeling. Finally Frank lets us get out of the car but since it was so muddy he told us not to wear our shoes. When on safari we typically wear flip flops because we won’t (slash not allowed) be getting out of the car and we can’t stand on the seats with shoes on so it makes sense to wear shoes you can easily take off. Amanda and I are the first to get out of the car and we couldn’t be more disgusted. We step out and literally sink into oozing mud with sticks, rocks and god knows what else in it. We moved as fast as possible to dry land where we promptly started comparing muddy limbs and panicking at the possibility of getting Giardia ( probably misspelled: a horrible bacteria that gives you faucet diarrhea when contaminated water is ingested. In the first week Erica freaked us out about it during the medical health lecture and when you have it you smell like sulfur or rotten eggs. Basically anytime I have a stomach ache I think I have it because she told us we would probably get it at some point, the symptoms don’t show for a  week so I’ll let you know next Saturday if I’m ok or not). UPDATE: NO Giardia!! 

Anyways, the only person truly enjoying the mud was Austin who walks around barefoot at the field site all the time. After ten minutes of getting used to the mud and realizing we are outside in a national park in AFRICA, Frank and Wilson finally let us help by telling us to search for rocks to pile under the tires so we had some traction in the mud. Of course the nearest rocks were right next to a tree surrounded by an ant hill with really freaking HUGE ants. By this point my feet were caked in mud so if the ants bit me I didn’t feel it, but they definitely were crawling all over my feet and legs. That is of course when Christina decides it is a good idea to tell us about the ants that will kill a baby if it is left unattended. She is a future vet and watches too much animal planet and discovery channel for her own good. It wasn’t until later when she decided to mention the parasite that burrows into your porous skin, gets into your blood stream and slowly eats your brain… I’ll also keep you updated on that one.

We gather a bunch of rocks and hand them to Wilson and Frank, who won’t let us stand near the jeep, and then they decide that even though the wench is broken we could still pull on the rope/cord thingy so we line up and start to pull. Talk about the best tug-of-war ever, where there is an actual point to it as Allie funnily pointed out. Wilson gets in the jeep starts the engine and as he hits the gas we all pulled. It was a lot of work but one minute later the car squelched free and we scrambled to get out of his way. That is when Luke scratched his hand on the wench rope because it is rope with metal so that it can pull a car. Even though it was really tiny we all freaked out at the possibility of infection so Amanda, Christina and I immediately took over and we sterilized it with Christina’s first aid kit. Then we put enough Neosporin on it to treat a bullet wound (Austin’s words not mine) and bandaged it then wrapped his clean handkerchief around his hand to protect it. We then sort of wash the mud off ourselves in the mostly water part of the road, Frank reassured us that there are no water snakes in this region because it is normally very dry, and we piled back into the jeep immediately in search of our baby wipes and purel.

Off we go, we were enjoying the scenery, but noticed a strange lack of animals. We saw four dik diks (really tiny and cute antelope that are all over this area, they are monogamous and spend their entire lives with one partner. Also they are very nutritious and the locals will hunt them for bushmeat, even though they are as small as my miniature poodle), but NO other animals. It was very odd, especially after the abundance of animals near the gate. So our animal count transect was preceding very slowly. We get to an intersection and we follow the sign that says Safari Lodge, which is our destination for lunch. By this point it is 11:30am, we have to be at the lodge by noon, but since we were stuck for so long we were very far away and it was going to take us over an hour to get there. So Frank calls Erica to update her and let her know we were going to be late. We turn right onto the road to the lodge and the scenery goes from open woodland to huge bushland and grassland (yes there is a difference), it looked exactly like Lion King would look like if it wasn’t animated. Complete with baobao trees, the really large and old trees that dwarf even elephants, and the tree that the wise baboon from Lion King lives in.  Right as I’m taking pictures we see another muddy part, this one looks even easier to drive through since there isn’t any water so we give it no thought. OF course we get stuck immediately, but even more stuck then we were in the pond.

After five minutes Frank and Wilson let us get out of the car to see if removing our weight will give us the power to get out, apparently our engine was starting to be messed up from water seeping into it while in the pond and we no longer had the power needed especially with all our weight. So we pile out and get a little muddy again, freaking out a little less and we go stand by the road sign. We turn around and see the jeep’s back right wheel completely sunk in mud; it looked like there was no wheel. And the back left wheel was halfway sunk. It looked impossible, even removing our weight did nothing. Then we go in search of stones and logs to help get us out a second time. Unfortunately we were not very good environmentalists; we broke some tree branches to get logs since there were none on the ground. It’s at this point that we start discussing the strange lack of animals. We had been aware that there was a threat of lions; we were outside in a national park and not in the jeep, with no guns for protection. But to make the connection that no animals meant we were in lion territory was surreal. We told ourselves that it wasn’t lion hunting time and that we were being really loud so any sane animal would have run away anyways and tried not to think about it. But we definitely didn’t wander far from the jeep and Frank had his eye on the surroundings the whole time. He studies lions when he isn’t teaching us so we knew he would be the one to spot them. Also if he wasn’t worried then we weren’t going to worry. When asked if there were lions he shrugged, typical African style, and said probably not.

We took a group shot by putting the camera on the sign, I’ll try to attach it but we have no internet so it may be too fragile for a photo upload. In the background is the jeep stuck in the mud. The stones and logs with some helpful pushing by the group worked and the car got unstuck. But the wheels spinning in the mud had caked Allie and Luke’s legs and shorts in mud. I escaped unscathed because I had flip flops on since it was very dry and thorny in some parts, but when I went to push the car I lost them in the mud as I started sinking. Of course the group decided to push while I’m struggling to pull my shoe out of the mud. I literally thought I would never get the shoe out of the mud and right as it popped out so did the car. We cheered took some muddy photos and piled back into the car. By this point we were all sweaty, beginning to be sunburnt and hungry so we munched on cookies, put on sunscreen and stood up to watch our surroundings. Then guess what should happen... we get stuck for the FOURTH time, only a km from the last place we got stuck. Its 12:30pm by now and the heat has become rather intense. Since we were in the grasslands there was no shade and when they let us pile out of the cars the water/mud was VERY hot! I felt like I was standing in a muddy hot tub, similar to a mudbath at a spa. We go again in search of logs and rocks, this time without having to be asked. After several horribly sounding tries to get the car unstuck Frank and Wilson came to the conclusion that it was time to use the wench rope again so they have Austin help them carry it and tie it around the nearest tree. The tree was very small and did NOT look sturdy enough but they tried it anyways. And the wench worked!!!! As it made a horrible cranking sound, with the tree slowly bending over, the car moved out of the mudhole it was stuck in and Wilson hit the gas to get it out of the mud even more. We cheered and clapped again, it seems to be our thing, LOL. 

We all hop into the car again and by this point we have the drill down. The order was Allie, Austin, Sarah, then Emily and Luke and finally Christina, me and Amanda. The way our jeep works is that there are 11 seats in total. Three in the way back, two in the middle back, three in the middle and finally three front seats including the driver.  In order to get to the middle back and back seats one of the middle seats has to be lifted. This requires someone to reach under the seat and pull a metal (that is pointy) lever towards them while moving the seat up. At first it is difficult but let’s just say Amanda and I have got it down by now. So to get out of the car, Christina gets out on her side, Amanda opens her side’s door and gets out with me following. Then I turn around, lift her backpack out of the way of the seat and place it on my middle seat and one of us lifts the chair up. Then Luke gets out, followed by Emily, Sarah, and Allie. Austin just hops over the side of the jeep since the hatches on the roof are open for the safari. Wilson was our driver and Frank in the front passenger seat. While driving once again and literally praying that we wouldn’t get stuck again, we sprayed ourselves with bug spray since the flies were incessantly bothering us. Not only do their bites hurt, but we have the risk of Titsi flies. They are flies that carry African sleeping sickness and any bite from them gives you the risk of getting that horrible disease. Just one more worry we all had LOL.

 As we were driving we still saw no animals and we realized we hadn’t seen ANY humans for the entire time we had been out. There were clearly tire tracks and a definite road in front of us, but no animals nor humans anywhere in sight. But the scenery was unreal, with a bright endlessly blue sky above us. While we were driving every time we saw mud or water we would freak out and it is at this point that we began offroading out of necessity. Offroading is when you go off the road (DUH), but it is one of the most despicable things you can do in the park. Not only is it illegal but you are destroying habitat, possibly stressing animals and it is very easy to get lost. Usually poachers or stupid tourists are the ones who offroad. If we hadn’t of had these extenuating circumstances we NEVER would have done it. But we had two options: go through a swamp/river that used to be the road or offroad occasionally to go around it. Our only goal was to get to the lodge, our animal counting transects completely abandoned. The group not stuck in our jeep intended to stay at the lodge till 3pm so that they could eat and go swimming. God did swimming sound like a dream. We were all hot, sweaty, muddy and exhausted. Jumping in a pool would have been amazing. 

I don’t really remember all the details of the next 7 times we got stuck, but all of them were epic. Some were easy, we just hopped out and Wilson drove out of the mud, others we had to push and pull for a while. We developed a routine of if we saw too much mud/water in the road up ahead we would get out and Wilson would drive to the next dry spot with us walking on foot behind him. Otherwise I’m sure we would have been stuck a hundred more times. We walked in so much mud that it looked like we had mud socks, thus prompting the title and nickname for our group. It was between our toes and when we scraped it off it made no difference, the mud was never ending. And I couldn’t wear my flip flops because that made it harder to walk since the mud made them so heavy and I didn’t want to lose them. The landscape was changing between bushland and grassland, but there were still no animals in the region. We saw a herd of cattle in the distance, on the Maasai lands bordering the park, but nothing else. We saw LOTS of bones and at one time an entire elephant carcass. People asked why we didn’t turn around or call for help. We did all of those things, we tried different roads, but each one was worse than the last, and we knew we couldn’t turn around because we would get stuck again, maybe even worse. It was better to keep forging towards the lodge. Wilson and Frank called constantly on the radio and the cell-phones but nothing was really getting through, or they would call right after we got unstuck to say we were on the way so the seriousness wasn’t fully expressed. Frank had told us earlier on that one time he and his students, different program, were stuck till midnight. We had all laughed at 11am, but by 3:30pm we started rationing food in case we had to spend the night. We had MORE than enough water since the jeeps always carry extra kegs of it. And luckily my jeep group could NOT have been better. We worked really well together, no one got annoyed with one another and we all had a great sense of humor about the whole thing. There was neither whining nor rudeness, we just were having fun. It’s also really satisfying when you get unstuck from the mud and the whole group breaks into applause and cheering out of sheer happiness. And our adrenaline never let up, we were constantly in a state of emergency because we were so constantly getting stuck.

We came to another fork in the road with one direction towards the lodge and another to the main gate, since it was after 3pm we decided to head to the gate. I say we, but the students had no say, it was Frank and Wilson with their experience who were making decisions and honestly our input was gently ignored. I feel I should also say that Wilson was an amazing driver with Frank giving great instructions and they really were watching out for our safety. Nothing that happened was their fault or ours. It is impossible to predict what will happen in the field, as seen on Valentine’s Day when Margret got lost and all of us handled it as best we could. You would think by this point my story ends and we find a dry road and drive to safety, but nope. The 12th time we got stuck was the worst we had ever been stuck. The road was literally covered in water and mud with completely dry grassland on either side. And Wilson had driven off ahead of us to try and avoid getting stuck and he still got stuck, but this time with the car slowly sinking into the mud. The situation was much more serious because it seemed there was no way out. On the walk to the clearly sinking car, what did we discover but lion paw prints. A whole pride (group of female lions) of them, and very fresh!! The last time we had gotten stuck Frank had pointed out a lion paw print that was no more than 2 hours old and the road had kind of looped us around so that we were parallel to that spot so we knew these tracks were even more fresh than the ones before. When asked: Frank shrugged, very infuriating when Africans do that, and said they could be close but probably not. None of us believed him and we all started watching the clock because prime lion hunting starts at 5pm which at the rate we were going was really close. It also gets dark around 6pm so Frank and Wilson kept yelling TWENDE (let’s go) at us every time we weren’t in the jeep. All of us were much more alert about our surroundings, but when you are walking in mud up to your knees it’s almost impossible not to be looking at your feet. I always thought it was so crazy how lions could sneak up on their prey unnoticed but being at their height surrounded by grass taller than me and knowing they are the same color as the grass… They could have been right next to me and I would have had no idea. Of course Luke and Austin thought it was hilarious to mention that as the smallest I look like the baby of the herd and I’d probably be their target, well that sure sped me up. None of us let anyone lag behind because we were feeling so paranoid, but we weren’t really paying that much attention. After over 6 hours of getting in and out of the jeep, it becomes a lot easier to let your guard down because you become accustomed to your surroundings. 

While walking in the mud I felt a sharp pain in my heel, I looked down, peeled the mud off my feet to see a thorn in my callous. I left it in there partly because it was stuck in there good and also because I thought it would be worse to have an open wound while walking in that mud with god knows what in the water. The entire trip the mud was much more than just mud, there were these rocks everywhere and after Austin examined one we realized it was flint. Again one of my thoughts was blasted apart. I had always thought that whoever discovered fire was a bit of a genius to have found the flint stones and smash them together to start fire. Well now I think even a caveman could have done it. Flint stones are EVERYWHERE as my feet are well aware now, I picked up a small piece as a memento (I know bad environmentalist again, but I felt I had earned it after they scratched me). The first humans would have been stupid to not figure it out; they probably accidentally dropped a flint stone on another flint stone and started a fire, thus giving them the knowledge of how to start a fire. It definitely wasn’t a genius who figured that one out.

Anyways, back to our slowly sinking jeep in the muddy road. After struggling for five minutes they knew this was much more serious than all the other times, so they called Erica and told them where we were and that we needed to be pulled out. Except that the technology wasn’t working and even though they were both on the phone and the radio no one knew where we were. I kept hearing una toka wapi on the radio over and over again, which is Swahili for where are you?  By this time we were sitting down in the mud while Frank and Wilson tried to solve our problem and contact Erica. This is not to imply that we hadn’t been pushing or pulling the car this entire time. We even tried lifting it and nothing was working. We were also acting delirious from so much sun and slight dehydration even though we had been drinking tons of water and were well fed. So we finally just collapsed in the mud and hoped a lion wasn’t anywhere near us. After 30 minutes we received radio contact that one of our other jeeps and the lodge owner were on their way to pick us up. But ten minutes after that we received news that they had gotten close but turned around to find another road less muddy but all the roads towards us were horribly muddy conditions. Upon hearing that our group surged together determined to get the car out of this mud. We laughed at the ridiculousness of our being stuck. We were so thoroughly stuck that no one could get to us. We made jokes that we would need a helicopter to rescue us; every joke has some truth behind it and let’s just say the joke wasn’t that funny. If you looked up you could see storm clouds and for the past half hour we had been hearing thunder. There was an interesting debate about whether the sound was a lion roar or thunder, but Frank settled that by saying it was thunder. We knew that if it rained our car would not only be sinking but would start filling with water.

Miraculously and I honestly don’t know how we did it but we pulled, pushed and literally LIFTED the 4 ton jeep out of the mud and Wilson sped off. We all cheered, once again, and started following the jeep. By now every single person but Christina and I had been completely covered in mud by the wheels. And don’t you dare even hint that we didn’t work as hard as everyone else, we just were pulling the rope or immediately behind the jeep so the spray didn’t reach us. Pulling the rope was dangerous because Wilson would rev the engine and turn the wheels side to side in an attempt to get free of the mud so being in front of the vehicle pulling the wench was very dangerous and every time we had to jump out of his way. Now it’s after 5pm, lion hunting time, and we can see storm clouds converging overhead from either side so when Frank calmly yelled TWENDE we ran to the jeep with Wilson waving his arms at us to hurry. We get to the jeep and hop in and we come to another intersection with a sign that has two different ways to get to the main gate. Frank and Wilson pick the drier looking one and speed off. The unfortunate thing that we discovered was that even though the road looks dry, that doesn’t mean it is. The sun had merely caked the top part dry, but it was still very much wet underneath it. After three more times of being very stuck but pushing the car out of the mud we passed the same intersection where we had gotten stuck the third time, except with the help of our already perfectly placed rocks and logs we managed to breeze through it, and it helped once we got out of the vehicle.

 Finally we get to the edge of the park and we can see the main gate far ahead in the distance, the Maasai are herding their cattle right next to the road, but straight ahead of us the road is literally a lake. Wilson tries to drive through it but realizes it is impossible so we reverse and offroad for a bit, but we came to another river of a road and hop out one more time. Wilson was supposed to offroad alongside us but decided that another part of the area looked drier and he disappeared around some trees with Frank yelling at him in Swahili. So we keep walking through the river, former road, with our feet covered in mud with no idea where Wilson or the jeep is. The sky at this point is filled with clouds and there is a beautiful fire rainbow. Austin explained to us that when a rainbow is next to the sun and it isn’t raining yet it is called a fire rainbow, well that was gorgeous and made the situation seem less dire. My favorite time of day is dusk/twilight right before it gets dark and everything has a golden halo around it from the dimming sun. Well that was what was happening, except not only is it getting dark in a national park, but we have NO idea where the jeep is. Frank leads us away from the river and towards where he heard Wilson shout, this is probably where the rest of my splinters came from. Stupid Whistling Thorn acacia tree! We get to the jeep, but he is on the other side of a former road, now river and has to cross it to get to us. He speeds up and crosses successfully but hydroplanes on the mud/water and zigzags into a tree… Not only is our jeep stuck in mud again but the top part of it had been completely dented by a tree branch. Wilson was totally fine, but Frank was livid, he started yelling at him in Swahili. I’m pretty sure the gist of it was about how stupid Wilson was and why did he go off in the wrong direction, etc… I’m sure with swear words, but seeing as I have a limited Swahili vocabulary I have no idea if he swore or not. He did NOT look happy and neither did Wilson. It’s literally on the verge of darkness and we were 3 km away from the main gate with no jeep. Frank yells at us to follow him and we start walking off in the direction of the main gate.

We grabbed our stuff out of the jeep as fast as possible, which took longer than it would have been if we hadn’t been doing physical labor all day, and scrambled after him. Wilson was sternly told by Frank to stay with the jeep and we headed off. 1/2 mile later we see a familiar jeep driving in our direction, its Moses and Charles (the engineer/mechanic who deals with all the cars), they yell at us to get in and zoom off towards the main gate. Of course the second we are in their jeep all the roads are perfectly dry and no mud or water in sight. We get to the main gate and are greeted by confused but happy fellow students. Erica looked so relieved until she realized Wilson wasn’t with us and neither was our jeep. Moses and Charles turned around with Frank and went to get them. Allie, Luke, Austin, Amanda, Emily, Christina, Sarah and I were left to explain ourselves to everyone. We must have looked quite a sight, completely covered in mud, I still was somehow very clean, and I later realized all the mud was on the inside of my clothes and not on the outside. One girl actually had the nerve to say I must not have done any work pushing the car since I was so clean, I can honestly say if I had been standing next to her I would have punched her in the face. We told some of our stories, this is the most complete version, but couldn’t even begin to convey everything that had happened to us. They had no idea what was going on, they thought we were lost the entire time. They asked us why we didn’t turn around and some questions that are just too stupid to repeat.  We showed them pictures and hugged a bunch of people, but I don’t think they’ll ever understand, nor will you, what really went down out there in Tarangire. I can say that the 8 of us are closer than anyone here. It’s so crazy, we didn’t drive each other insane, we had a total blast and we worked our butts off to get to the main gate.

Thank god for Frank and Wilson. Of course once we got back we were told the seriousness of everything that happened. Not only is it illegal to walk in this national park, but we returned after 6pm which is normally heavily punished with a fine, and that the lion pride tracks we saw were probably 5 minutes old according to Frank. We were walking directly behind a lion pride; they were probably around us the whole time!! Frank said he didn’t want to freak us out and that lions don’t really eat people. Around noon we had seen five different groups of circling vultures in the distance and Frank told us that where we saw the prints we were directly underneath and between the vultures, probably stalking lion kills… There are a hundred things that could have gone wrong, we could have been injured, or bitten by a black mamba (very poisonous and very common snake here). He also decided to mention that no animals meant we were in lion territory and that every time we got out of the car we were in danger. Around 7pm Chitty Chitty Bang Bang was returned to us with Wilson, and we returned home. Charles drove though with Wilson inbetween him and Frank. Wilson got chewed out in Swahili, I really wish I could have understood everything that was said. Oh and did I mention we had to drive without one of the hatches on, very illegal, since the front one was so bent out of shape from the tree. And it started raining twenty minutes from camp. But the view of the sky and lightening was amazing right above me so it was worth it. The jeep is a piece of work, throughout the day the tires had been making whistling noises and something would smoke, definitely smelled burning rubber several times, the engine is probably fried and we almost ran out of gas on the way to Moyo Hill. But by 9pm we pulled into the camp and ate the most delicious dinner ever. Then the mudsocks had a mandatory 45minute foot soak in anti-septic with a debrief to Erica so she could write up a report. We also got an extension on our three papers for another two days, sweetness. Then showers and bed. I pulled the splinters out before I went to bed and coated my feet in Neosporin. I feel exhausted today but totally fine and I don’t want anyone to worry. I’m barely even sunburnt since I put so much sunscreen on, not even bug bites since I used bug spray, Luke on the other hand has a swollen face and ears from a bad sunburn. And I least got the thorns out of my feet, Frank had a total of 11 this morning still in. Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to write it all down before I forgot anything. Our medical professional said that since it had rained the night before the water was probably as safe as we could get and we should be fine. I’ll let you know if I get giardia. I really hope not!! And this adventure in no way reflects on my program here in Tanzania, everything that happened was the safest anyone could make and the most scared I actually felt was while driving at night with no street lights and dangerous drivers. Hakuna Matata!!

Much love and I honestly feel great,

Julie

P.S. we got stuck a total of 16 times, not counting the times we had to get out and walk behind the jeep.
P.P.S.  BEST GROUP EVER. YAY mudsocks!!